I had been interested in owling Texas for a couple of years. Both Western and Eastern screech owls occur in Texas. The Sutton's race of Western Screech owl and McCall's race of the Eastern screech are potential splits. The Sutton's occur around Big Bend National Park, while the McCall's occurs from about Del Rio to Brownsville along the Rio Grande. I decided to drive down in a rental and then fly back with both boys on spring break.
March 19th. The boys did there best to cram their school work into the morning, then in the middle of the day we picked up a Nissan Versa from Thrifty. I can't say much good about the car, except it didn't break down and it smelled like aftershave (which was better than all our other other smells after a few days on the road). We loaded up the car with 10 days of food and some minimalist camping gear and set off. We drove East along the Columbia Gorge, across the Blue Mountains, and down to the Snake River where we camped at Farewell Bend State Park. It was a clear cool evening, and we made a beautiful-smelling campfire from sage wood.
March 20th. I woke at first light, and enjoyed the luxury of a pot of good coffee and my own thoughts while the boys slept in. We made what was to become a standard of the trip; bacon for George and pancakes for Charlie. I ate whatever I thought would go bad. We played by the Snake River, casting rocks into it's brown waters while killdeers complained along the pebbly banks. Reluctantly we hit the road mid morning. A quick review of the phone showed it was a long fucking way Moab, Utah. I drove the car hard (the speed limit in Idaho is 80) through to Salt Lake City. There it started to snow, which got me worried, as we had to cross the Wasatch Mountains. Despite the snow, the road was clear, and we pressed on through to the sandstone deserts to the East. Tui called to remind us she had made beyond meat "meatballs". At sunset we pulled off the road into a juniper woodland and warmed up the meatballs and pasta, it was really spot on.
My plan was to camp in one of the BLM campgrounds along the Colorado River near Moab. All the campgrounds were full, and it was an exercise in frustration driving through each one (we tried seven). So we decided to fuck it and free camp. I did my best to hide the Versa from passing traffic. We hiked down a short sandy trail to a beach on the Colorado and set up camp. Despite the late hour, the boys had energy and we built a small fire from driftwood. We sat by the fire and starred at the huge silhouetted cliffs.
March 21st. Again I woke early and was able to enjoy coffee and the most beautiful view of the Colorado and the big, brick red cliffs above while the boys slept in.
We made another fire and played on the sandy beach for a while before breaking camp. Loading up the Versa, we got stopped by a friendly ranger who busted us for camping in a prohibited place. Fortunately we got off with a warning.
Today it was a long, long drive to Lincoln National Forest in Southern New Mexico. The boys were really good in the car, which I didn't take for granted.
It was a long ass drive, and around 10 pm we pull off the highway and through scrubby range-land into Lincoln National forest. I was so tired, I literally parked at the Welcome to Lincoln National Forest sign. We cooked a late dinner. Around midnight a big ugly wind picked up. George opted to sleep in the Versa, while Charlie and I stayed awake for a couple of hours, before the wind subsided and we slept. At one point in the long night I heared a great-horned owl singing.
March 22nd. I always enjoy waking up to a camp spot that I reached in the dark. All around are cactus and a nearby wash is lined with pale yellow sandstone cliffs. It's too windy for a fire.
After breakfast we took a quick walk, then piled into the Versa and head out to Texas. Once out of the mountains, the wind really picks up. We passed through 100 miles of ugly oil fields. Huge brown clouds of dust blew across the road. Flares burn off gas. There are whole towns of trailers for transient oil workers. I am worried as wind is the enemy of owling.
We pulled into our campsite, the Goat Pens, just outside Big Bend mid afternoon. The wind is crazy, and the kids complained it's blowing sand in their eyes. We pick the most sheltered site, up a small dry gulch. I place big sandstone boulders in each corner of the tent to keep it from blowing away. We then drove into the National Park, and made our way to Cottonwood campground-a site for Western screech owl. The campground is small and does not look interesting, so we continue on to Santa Elena Canyon. I was stunned by this place. It's a narrow canyon through which the Rio Grande flows. The cliffs are so tall and beautiful. We hiked up the canyon and eventually wade the Rio Grande to Mexico.
Everyone was happy to be out the car, and we enjoyed being loud and playful, chasing each other and climbing on huge, house-sized boulders. After a dinner of veggie burgers the sun set. I packed the boys in the Versa and set off exploring the mesquite woodland for owls. Sure enough a Western screech sings and within minutes I got lovely views of a singing male. It's a big park and it takes an hour to drive back to the Goat Pens. The wind has completely stopped and it's the most beautiful starry night.
March 23rd. We all woke early and got to enjoy a modest fire.
The boys clambered around on the small sandstone ridge above the tent. It felt good to let them roam. We drove up to the basin, a huge crater surrounded by mountains. We hiked down to the Window, a slot through which a now dry creek pours through a narrow gorge and (as a waterfall) down a big cliff. At the Window a cool breeze blew in from the desert far below. Alas the hike back up to the car was hot and I forsake water so the boys can have it all. I was really light-headed by the time I reached the car. I checked in with a ranger about rattle snakes and javelinas, George's most wanted Texas animals. Apparently it's too early for the snakes, but javelinas are at the Rio Grande village. We head down there, and park by a grove of cottonwoods.
Sure enough a boar soon came out of the mesquite thicket. Like a lot of animals in the park it's habituated to people and we got really close. Soon 14 javelinas came out to feed. George was delighted. At sunset a big horned sheep stood high above at the edge of the cliff and surveyed this place. Again at dusk, I packed the boys in the Versa. I soon found three Western screech owls in the mesquite, seeing one and hearing a pair.
Again it's a long (hour) drive back to the Goat Pens.
March 24th. I didn't really have an owling agenda for today so we drove up the Rio Grand to Big Bend Ranch State Park, stopping along the river to play in the water, cook hamburgers for lunch, enjoy and Indian pale ale and generally loaf around in the heat.
We traveled as far Closed Canyon, a narrow dry slot canyon. Despite the heat (about 90), the canyon was shady, and wonderfully cool. We made it back to the goat pens before sunset. After dinner the wind started to pick up. We decided to retreat to the Versa. George got the back seat, Charlie the driver's and I slept shotgun. Around midnight George and I woke, the Versa feeling hot and oppressively stuffy. We woke Charlie, and retreated to the tent, with the cold desert sand between out toes, hoping we didn't stand on any scorpions. As I drifted in and out of sleep I could hear coyotes calling and a great-horned owl singing.
March 25th. We packed up and left the Goat Pens. Our first destination was the fossil exhibit, where we could see dinosaurs. Big Bend is an incredible place for fossils. George delighted in pointing out all the dinosaurs he previously had known only from books. We then said goodbye to the park and drove along a series of hot, fast and mostly empty highways to Fort Clark Springs, about 200 miles to the East. The springs are a repurposed fort that is now a retirement community and campground. We set up camp in a beautiful grove of live oaks by a small creek.
The springs fill a huge swimming pool, and although closed for cleaning on Thursdays, we couldn't help ourselves and we went for a swim. The water is wonderfully unchlorinated and cool. We were delighting in the water when a security guard came to yell at us. Sheepishly we return to the campsite and build a fire. After dinner I packed the boys in the tent and set out in search of Eastern screech owl. I soon find a singing male by the creek-side and get excellent views of a gray phase bird.
March 26th. I had made reservations at Bentsen Rio Grande State Park, which was a back up site for Eastern Screech owl. I perseverated on whether to drive down to Bentsen Rio Grande State Park, or stay at Fort Clark Springs. We were enjoying breakfast by the campfire, when our host drove over to let us know that we can't have a fire. I take that as an omen and decided to head down South. It's a long drive down to Mcallen. I had chosen a hike in site, and it's a hot, buggy, mile-long walk to the campground. Once we are there, were horrified at the swarm of voracious mosquitos. I hurriedly pitch the tent and rushed back to the car for bug spray, leaving the boys in the tent.The bug spray had little effect, so we decided to drive into town for popsicles.
We returned to the tent at dusk, and I get the boys zipped up in the tent. Checking out the campsite, I heard two Eastern screech owls. A little further down the road I got good views of an Eastern screech owl, before viscous mosquitoes drove me back to the tent. The heat, itching, drone of the mosquitos and low-flying fucking border patrol helicopters kept me up for much of the night. I did get to hear a distant great-horned owl and a barn owl right outside the tent!
March 27th. I had planned on staying at Bentsen Rio Grande State Park for two nights. After that night of hell, I called Tui, who generously booked us into a AirBnB at New Braunfels, TX. We walk along a canal at Bentsen Rio Grande State Park, where a half mile section of Trump's wall has been constructed. I found a wad of small denomination peso notes in the grass, and wonder what hard story connects to the money. We drove up to New Braunfels. At the rental it's really nice to be able to shower, do laundry and cook on a stove. That evening we visited the springs in the center of town. We walked around the springs, checking out the cool fish and turtles. Everyone sleeps soundly that night.
March 28th. We flew out of Austin. I was a bit worried that George would have a hard time with wearing a mask for most of the day, but he did just great, and spends most of the flight either asleep, or yipping in delight as the plane bounces around in turbulence. It was really wonderful to reunite with Tui at the airport
