Sunday, January 2, 2022

2022 owling

I live in Portland Oregon, with my wife Tui, two boys, Charlie (ten) and George (seven) and a pitbull Maile.

Jan 1st. Charlie and I drove out to Erroll Heights Park, where we found a roosting barred owl. We tried for the Sellwood barn owl, but found none. On the way home, we stopped at the overlook for a glimpse at the screech owl roosting far below. 

Late in the afternoon, Tui, George and I drove out to Scappoose Bottoms. We found a short eared owl flying over a distant dike. On the way home we found a great-horned owl perched in a roadside cottonwood. 

Jan 7th Late in the day, I took Maile and the boys to Scappoose. We walked around near the airport and found two short-eared owls. One was hunting over rough pastures, while the other was hunting over wet reedbeds. This is the first time I had seen short-eared hunting over reedbeds. Perhaps it was hunting roosting blackbirds?

Jan 8th. Charlie and I rode our tandem out to Erroll Heights park, where we found a pair of barred owls roosting in the usual site.

Jan 14th. I drove down to Finley in search of a couple of roosting long-eared owls that had been reported last weekend. At dusk, a couple of scolding ruby-crown kinglets alerted me to a great-horned owl that had just started hunting. Alas I never found any long-eared owls, but was compensated by a prairie falcon and a bobcat. 

Jan16-17th. George and I drove out to Fossil in Wheeler county. Owling around Fossil I heard one long-eared owl and five great-horned owls. 

                        View from where we charged the car and cooked dinner at Condon

We pulled into Bear Hollow county park onto some icy snow and promptly got stuck.

                                                    George snow camping at Bear Hollow
At first light camping at Bear Hollow, I heard a singing pygmy owl. While cooking breakfast a work truck drove by, and the guy kindly towed us free. 

We stopped at a barn near Condon and found a beautiful great-horned owl. At Deschutes state park we found a fantastic roosting saw-whet owl. 

That evening Tui and I walked around Tabor after dark and heard a singing great-horned owl, that stubbornly remained out of sight.

While walking Maile in the neighborhood, I heard a barn owl. 

Jan 22nd. The whole family went to Willow Bar on Sauvie's Island at sunset. We heard a pair of duetting great-horned owls in the tall cottonwoods, but dense brambles prevented us from getting close enough to see them.

Jan 23rd. I went to Oaks Bottom at dusk and found a singing screech owl perched low in a bush at sunset. 

Jan 28th. George, Maile and I returned to Willow bar and walked the beach at sunset. We found one great-horned owl, silhouetted against the Western sky on the crown of an oak tree. 

Jan 29th. George and I hiked around Reed Canyon on a sunny afternoon. We had checked for barred owls a half dozen times this month and this was the first time we found one (roosting in a small fir tree).

Feb 11th. George and I went to Sauvie on a warm sunny morning. We stopped at Oak Island Road and found a roosting barn owl.  


Feb 12th. Charlie and I rode our bike to Errol Heights Park, to check on the barred owls. We quickly found a pair of beautiful owls roosting in Doug Firs.

Later George, Mail and I drove out past Mt Hood towards Maupin. At Dusk we pulled over on a small gravel road.

                                        View of Mount Hood from Pine Grove dinner spot
I cooked dinner on the stove, while Maile explored, and George kicked around a soccer ball. We explored a ridge at the North Edge of the Warm Springs reservation after dark, hearing a saw-whet owl and two screech owls. We ended in driving up Badger Creek Road and camping in White River Wildlife Management area. I had hoped to find a long-eared owl, but we neither heard or found one of these fantastic owls. 

Feb 13th. Tui, Charlie and I walked around Tryon. At dusk, Charlie disturbed a roosting great-horned owl with his stick sword fighting antics. 

Feb 15th. I went out owling with my friend Andy Frank to Leif Erikson trail. We found two saw-whet owls and a great-horned owl. We saw one of the saw-whets in flight, which was very cool. It looked like a giant moth as it flew around these tall Doug Firs.

Feb 18th. After dinner, I went to the South end of Oaks Bottoms after dark, and found a pair of screech owls, perched very low in some low Doug Firs. 

Feb 19th. Charlie and I made an epic (for us) tandem bike ride along Leif Erikson trail. On the return we heard, and later found two fantastic singing barred owls at dusk.

Feb 20th. George and I visited Willow Bar at Sauvie's Island. On the way back we stopped at Oak Island Road, where I found a roosting dark barn owl. 

Feb 21st. George and I drove out to Force Lake to check on the nesting great-horned owls. Sure enough, a incubating (or brooding) great-horned owl was sat conspicuously on the nest. 

Feb 25th. Andy Frank let me know about a screech owl in a cavity in his yard. I showed up at Sunset, and the owl was peeking out of a large hole in a birch tree. Over the next 15 minutes it emerged from the hole, sang a half dozen times, then flew off.

Feb 26th. Following up on a lead from Andy Frank, I found a singing pygmy owl in Forest Park. The bird perched out in the open in a maple tree. It song vigorously for ten minutes, while a vigilant Anna's hummingbird harassed it. 

Feb 27th. Maile and I took a wet walk around Errol Heights Park, where we found two barred owls roosting together in the same small stand of Doug firs. 

Mar 5th. Charlie, Maile and I took a walk at Sitka Sedge. At the parking area we head some scolding fox sparrows. We crept into the undergrowth and were thrilled to find a pygmy owl fly up to a low perch clutching a dead towhee in it's talons. We got fantastic looks at this fierce little predator

March 6th. I took a pre-dawn walk into the coast range from Whalen Island. I had been hoping to find saw-whet owls in the dense stands of Doug Fir. Instead a hungry Barred owl flew into investigate me. It's mate called from the slope below.  

March 11th. I got up early, well before dawn and checked Laurelhurst Park for owls, but found none. I then drove out to the Columbia Slough, to check on a great-horned owl nest in a cottonwood cavity. I found a silent great-horned, perched near the nest site. Eventually it flew into the cavity. Below the nest site a barn owl flew by. Then a skunk walked by, fortunately I noticed the it first and was able to leash my dog, Maile, before she got too close.

I took the boys to Willow Bar that evening. We cooked Kalbe beef and fed the rib bones to Maile. On the way back I found a great-horned and screech owl near Racoon Point (and heard a barn owl).

3/19 Charlie, Maile and I walked around Powell Butte at dusk, searching for a short-eared owl reported on e-bird. Sure enough we had fantastic views of a hunting owl near the summit. Walking back to the car we heard a barred owl singing.

3/20-24. I took George and Charlie on a 4 night trip through East Oregon. We drove out to Hot Lake near LaGrande. I was hoping for either long-eared or short eared owl, but found neither. We did hear a great-horned. A little further East, near Medicine Springs, I saw one roadside great-horned, and heard a second, plus a screech owl. We drove up through the snow, and found a dry, snow free spot, to pitch the tent under a big ponderossa tree.

The next day we awoke to light snow. We headed south a few miles to some sage-covered hills, where we searched for short-eared owls. Again, we didn't find any. We did find a beautiful great-horned owl, nesting in a cottonwood. Both boys got out of the car to enjoy it, and Charlie drew a fantastic caricature of it. We continued on, through Richland to Moonshine Mine campground on the snake river.We lazed around for the afternoon at the river, before returning to the same sage flats in search of short-eared owls. Along the road we found another great-horned owl on a nest. On the sage flats we saw pronghorn, and a sage grouse, while many coyotes called. Alas no short-eared owls. On the drive back I saw a screach owl near Richland, and heard two more, plus a great-horned. Charlie and I stayed up late at the campground, listening to a pair of great-horned owls, singing across the Snake in Idaho. 

After breakfast we followed the Snake to I84 then drove along the Interstate to Ontario. From there we drove south through Adrian where we had really great views of another nesting great-horned owl. We turned onto Succor creek road, where I found a burrowing owl in the same general area that I had seen one last year. We arrived at Succor Creek Park, and spent the afternoon eating and relaxing. After dinner, we headed south about 15 miles, to more sage flats, in search of short-eared owls.

                                        Maile taking a break along Succor Creak road

Again, we were stumped by short eared owls, and despite staying until well after dark and listing for their distinctive bark, we could not find any. As a consolation we found another great-horned owl at Mahogany Gap Road, and saw a wild turkey.

I was awoken by a singing screech owl several times. At breakfast a pair of noisy prairie falcons flew high above our camp. We headed back north along Succor Creek Road, stopping briefly for another nesting great-horned owl, near Adrian. From Vale, we headed West through Burns, and beyond to Glass Buttes. We climbed along a rough track into a dense stand of junipers and made camp. After dark we drove several roads, stopping and listening for screech owl. We found none, but did hear two singing saw-whet owls, interesting that they breed in Juniper Forests. I was awoken to both a solitary great-horned owl singing and a female long-eared owl calling. 

Mar 26th. The whole family went to check out a great-horned owl nest on the Columbia Slough. The nest site is in a large cavity in an old cottonwood. When we arrived an adult bird and a chick were visible in the nest hole. It's mate soon flew out from an unseen roost site. Both adults started hunting, but remained silent as it got darker.

Mar 27th. I got up before dawn to check on the screech owls that roost in the cavity of an ash tree at Oaks Bottom. I didn't hear any screech owls, but a pair of barred owls started duetting nearby. I was able to scramble down the bluff in the dark and find both owls in cottonwood trees without a flashlight.

I then headed out to Reed Canyon to try and locate the barred owls that have bred there for years. After a 15 minute wait, one owl started to actively fly around and sing. A second bird called but it was very muffled. Perhaps it was calling from a nest cavity. Eventually the second owl showed up, they mated briefly, before a mob of angry crows started to harass them. 

Mar 28th. Charlie and I decided to check on a reported screech owl at Ladd's Addition. WE rode our bike there, but found no owls. On the way back we heard a singing barred owl at Crystal Springs Gold course. We snuck in, and soon found the big owl, exposed, high in a bare maple tree. 

April 2nd. The whole family went to Force Lake in the evening. I was able to see an adult owl pulling beakfulls of meat from a carcass and feeding it to a large chick.

Apr 3rd. I walked Maile to the bluff at Oaks Bottoms, from there I could spy the screech owl roosting in the usual cavity in an old ash tree. 

April 8-10th. The whole family went to stay in an AirBnB in Condon. I tried to find either pygmy or saw-whet owl along Lost Valley Road in Gilliam County but found neither. While driving to the Painted Hills, I checked a roadside barn and found a pair of great-horned owls nesting in a raven nest. 

One night I drove to Deschutes county, and found a barn owl-a rare bird in Deschutes, and a roadside great-horned owl. I didn't get back until 2 am, just as a blizzard started. The next morning we awoke to a snow-covered landscape. 

On the drive back, Tui spotted a nesting great-horned owl near the town of Wasco. 

April 16th. I got up before dawn and drove with Maile to Gabriel Park. Soon after arriving I heard a distant barred owl. I followed the call into a residential neighborhood, and after over an hour of searching I found two barred owls fighting on the ground. Above them a murder of crows squawked. When I disturbed them, one owl flew off, but was quickly grabbed by the second owl, and they tumbled into the undergrowth. 

April 17th. I awoke early and drove out to Powell Butte before dawn. Near the summit I found a pair of barn owls. At least two, possibly three great-horned owls were singing. I got to see one great-horned owl fly by. A northern pygmy owl sang from the same ridge that I heard it a couple of weeks ago. After some searching I eventually saw the pygmy owl high in a Doug fir.

April 22nd. Charlie and I rode out tandem out to Laurelhurst Park, where screech owls had been reported recently on ebird. I had tried  a couple of times early in the morning in March and failed. This time Charlie spotted an owl in some Rhododendrons, and after much searching I was able to see it in flight a couple of times. Charlie earned himself an ice-cream as a reward. 

April 24th. I got up before dawn, and drove with Maile out to Portland Children's Arboretum. A gang of three coyotes met us, and were surprisingly fearless. I heard a pair of great-horned owls. We startled a skunk, and after it got light I found a great-horned owl roosting in a stand of firs. I tried a great-horned owl nest by the golf course, but the young had fledged, and where not visible. Last I visited Force Lake to check on the great-horned owl nest there. Again the owls had fledged. I could not see any juvenile owls, but an adult was standing guard just below the nest.

April 29th-30th. Sean Cozart found a pair of burrowing owls in Baker County. This is a local and uncommon breeder in NE Oregon, so with Sean's help, I decided to make the long drive out to the wild sagelands to look for this owl. Georeg, Maile and I drove out on a beautiful clear day. We arrived at the location just before dusk. After a tense minute of scanning the ground from the car, a burrowing owl flew up onto a fence post. What a brilliant owl.

We drove a little ways down the road and got out for a beautiful evening walk.

                                                    Wild and beautiful Baker County

                                                              My wild paleontologist 

I wished we stayed there and camped, but with rain due tomorrow, I wanted to make the most of the owling out here. We drove back around to Enterprise, and then headed North towards Floras, stopping when we reached the first forest. With George asleep in the car, I spent a  couple of hours searching for saw-whet owls, but found none. I did hear a couple of great-horned, and saw one from the road. We camped near the top of a mountain, under a chilly star-laden night. 

Alas, we awoke to the predicted rain. Reluctantly we returned home. I found a great-horned in a nest just outside of Enterprise. We stopped at Spring Creek, but it was pouring, and the one platform I checked had no owls on it.

May 8th. Tui and I took a rainy hike around Tryon . A pair of scolding robins lead me to a barred owl, perched very low in a gully. This is the first time I have seen barred owl in Tryon since 2020. I'm curious if there is a nesting pair. 

May 13-15th. The whole family went to stay at a rental house in Sisters. On Friday night it rained, so I stayed with everyone. Saturday night was perfect, with a big moon. I drove out to green ridge in search of great-gray owls. Alas, I found none. I did hear one, and saw a second beautiful saw-whet owl. It was great just to take a night hike with Maile. 

May 20-22nd. Charlie, Maile and I went on an adventure to Ironside Mountain in Malhuer County. We first stopped at Conley Lake, where short-eared owls have nested. We arrived at dusk, and failed to find any short-eared owls. We did find five great-horned in the general area. After charging the car in LaGrande, we drove to Ironside Mountain arriving just before 2am. A singing saw-whet owl greeted us at our camp site. 

I woke at 6am, and started searching the area near the tent, while Charlie slept. I soon heard a pygmy owl, my first in Malheur County. I eventually got good views of this owl being mobbed by Audubon's warblers. After a hot breakfast we hiked around as the blue sky changed gray, and a big storm arrived, dousing us with hail. Maile found a snow-shoe hare to chase.

                                                                Ironside Mountain
We decided to find drier weather, so set off for Umatilla County, stopping along the way to charge at John Day. Late in the afternoon we reached Alkali Flats road, near Pendleton. After some searching we found a pair of nesting burrowing owls. 

We drove West to Quesna County park, where we camped on the banks of the Columbia, we didn't find any owls, but the sky was so beautiful and we had a beautiful fire.

                                                                Quesna County park

May 27-29th. George, Maile and I drove out to Lost Valley Rd in Gilliam County.

                                                        Lost Valley Road at sunset
We listened for pygmy owls at dusk, but didn't hear any. Before it got completely dark, and under a fine drizzle, a distant flammulated owl hooted. This is the first time I have found this bird in Gilliam County. We drove south to Kinzua Golf Course, where we camped. It rained during the night, but we stayed dry under a big ponderosa pine. 

After a nice breakfast we headed up to Condon, and charged the car. We then drove northwest to Hermiston, stopping along the way at Sand Hollow Rd, where we tried for short-eared owl. We failed to find short-eared, but did find a great horned standing watch from a grain elevator tower. Later we flushed a pair of great-horned from an old barn.

From Hermiston we made our way West to Quesna County Park on the Columbia. We cooked some food and loafed around until early evening. We drove a loop around Boardman Bombing Range in search of short-eared owls. Alas, despite perfect looking habitat we found none. We did see elk and a nighthawk, hear coyotes and curlews. A family of four great-horned owls entranced George. It was late and rainy by the time we returned to Quesna County Park. We pitched the tent under a gazebo. Unfortunately over the night, rain pooled over the concrete floor. We awoke to find ourselves really wet and uncomfortable.

June 2nd. Charlie and Maile headed out to Reed Canyon to see if the barred owls had youngsters. We initially didn't hear any owlets whiled away twenty minutes playing checkers under the foot bridge. On the way back to the car, we found two noisy owlets and an adult at the head of the canyon. 

June 3rd. Late in the evening, Maile and I went to Marshall Park. A coyote greeted us at the entrance to the park. We heard no owls on the walk down, but when returning to the car we heard a pair of juvenile barred owls begging. I found a couple of owlets high in a Doug fir, one was obviously a lot larger than the other. We waited for five minutes, but didn't see any adults. 

June 4th. Maile and I visited Errol Heights Park at dusk. I saw five beavers in the main pond. I soon heard the begging calls of young barred owls, and was able to find 3 youngsters taking shelter under a dense fir.

June 6th. Charlie and I returned with Maile to Reed Canyon, where we found two juvenile and two adult barred owls. 

June 12th. Charlie and I took Maile to Marshal Park Despite the heavy spring rain we walked past a couple of adult roosting barred owls, one we saw from just 10' away. 

June 16-18. Charlie, Maile and I drove out to the Wallowa Mountains for a weekend. We started owling after dark, exploring the forest roads between Wallowa and Troy. Around midnight I heard a flammulated owl on the far side of a wet meadow. I hiked the meadow and deep into some thick stands of young pines. It was a moonless night, and I was worried that I might get disorientated in the dark. I eventually got views of a tiny flammulated owl flying between two fir trees. We persisted until 230am looking for saw-whet, but found none. We drove the car up a logging track until the wheels began to spin in the mud, and parked for the night. Charlie caught a second wind, and I had a couple of warm dark beers, while we chatted. 

I woke early, surprised to hear a sandhill crane calling overhead. I spent a couple of hours drinking coffee and watching Maile explore the meadow, while Charlie caught up on his sleep. We eventually made our way to Enterprise, where we charged the car and loafed around town for a couple of hours. Charlie wanted to ride the Wallowa Lake gondola. The highlight of our ride, was great views of a bear, just below the gondola. After our ride, we drove into the Wallowa mountains. We stopped and walked to a small lake in the forest, where we built  a camp fire. We cooked dinner, took a couple of short walks and relaxed. Maile jumped over a downed log and cut her shoulder on a sharp branch. There wasn't much blood, but her muscle was dramatically exposed by the open would. We hiked up a small forest track after dark through thick young firs. Charlie spotted something small flying against the twilight. Soon a saw-whet started singing! We eventually got nice views in the flashlight. 

Buoyed, we decided to make the long drive to Spring Creek to look for great gray owls. Near Joseph we got good views of a roadside great-horned owl. At spring creek we saw a big owl in the headlights. I initially thought it was a great gray, but the next morning, Charlie and I found a great-horned about 1/2 mile away and I expect that was the bird we saw. More exciting, we saw a goshawk fly by.

 The drive back was a shit show. A key EV charger was broke, and there were a lot more electric cars using other chargers. We had to drive up to Kennewick, WA to get a charge and didn't get home until 9pm!

June 19th. Tui and I went to Mary Young Park. We found an adorable pair of recently fledged barred owls perched quite low in a maple tree.

June 20th. Charlie and I went to Audubon Sanctuary in Portland in search of young barred owls. We had a nice walk, but found none. Late in the evening, I returned, and ventured into the upper part of the reserve. I quickly found one adult and three juvenile barred owls.

As the sun set, I drove out to Mary Young, where I refound the two juvenile barred owls, plus an adult with prey. Nearby a juvenile great-horned owl was perched low on a bough eating a rabbit!

June 22nd. While staying at Whalen Island, I got up well before dawn and checked the cow pastures for barn owls. Sure enough, I had a barn owl silently flying overhead around 415am. 

June 24th. I struggled to get up at 330am to go out and visit Happy Valley Nature Park, where a family of screech owls had been reported. I initially found a pair of territorial birds, and then later heard two, and saw one juvenile plus an attending adult in a different part of the park. 

June 25th. Again I got up at 330am. I drove out to Oaks Bottom to search for juvenile screech owls. I walked the whole East side, but heard none. At first light I saw a silent barred owl. There has been a pair reported here all spring, and perhaps they have eaten or at least silenced the screech owls. Also no indication that the barred owls have raised young here.

June 26th. I got up at 5am and drove out to Wapato on Sauvie's Island. Near the entrance to the park I found at least one begging juvenile barred owl with a pair of attendant adults nearby. 

July 1st. Charlie, Maile and I headed out to the Holman Lane entrance to forest park. There we found at least on screech owl. We hiked down to Macleay Trail, where Charlie found a second screech owl singing low in an alder tree. 

July 3rd. Charlie, Maile and I took a hike along Oak Island road after sunset. We found a family of raccoons, a possum and a great-horned owl (revealed by scolding robins). Charlie was hoping for a barn owl but we found none. 

July 29th. On a very hot summer evening, Charlie, Maile and I drove out to Larch Mountain. Our main target was Common Nighthawk, which we easily found. Driving down Larch, we could hear a begging juvenile barred owl. We stopped, and were able to find a juvenile owl flying between tall Doug Firs. 

Aug 8th. I took the boys for a 3 night camping trip to the North Oregon Coast. In the foothills above Whalen Island while the boys and Maile were asleep in the tent, I heard a pair of barred owls duetting below us. 

Aug 11th. I took the boys out to Willow Bar on Sauvie's island for a swim after work. Driving back across the island at sunset I saw a great-horned owl fly into a stand of cottonwoods. 

Aug 24th. George and I heard a juvenile great-horned owl at Willow Bar on Sauvie's island.

Aug 25th. Driving back from Willow Bar after a swim, George and I drove past separate great-horned owls on Sauvie's Island. Both birds, were perched on utility poles. 

Aug 30th. Walking across Willow Bar on Sauvie's Island with George, I heard a begging juvenile great-horned owl. A minute late I saw a dark (presumably adult) great-horned owl fly along the side of the clearing. Unfortunately Charlie was behind with Tui and missed out on the owls. 

Sep 8th. I took Charlie and George to Willow Bar. While George and I were swimming Charlie found a singing great-horned owl. He was rightly very happy with the sighting. George and I returned from swimming to find Charlie sharing his find with a dog walker.  This is Charlie's side of the story. After my dad and brother started swimming I waited for about 15 minutes until I went back to the forest. Along the way some Californian Quails ran past me. I laid the speaker down and turned up the volume. I moved around a bit to different areas of this flat dinosaur grass covered section. After about 15 minutes no owl had yet to make and appearance. I moved about 10 feet up the path until I noticed a dog walker. They seemed to be taking a picture of something ironically in the same direction the owl would show up in a couple minutes later. Then  out of nowhere a large dark brown bird swooped overhead. it landed on a tree about 10 feet in front of me. it started to hoot at the speaker, and it was definitely not a juvenile . It's most defined feature was its white ring around its neck. after a minute it moved right into another tree from a similar distance. My dad must have see it from a distance because he said he had seen me looking at it. Soon it flew back into some trees across the other side of the path and that's pretty much it.

Sep 9th. Tui, George and I went swimming in the evening at Willow Bar on Sauvies Island. Walking back to the car at dusk, we heard and then saw a juvenile great-horned owl begging and flying conspicuously around the clearing.

Sep 16-17. Charlie and I drove out to Lost Valley Rd near Condon. Our quest was to find a couple of small forest owls in Gilliam County, which has just a couple of tiny fragments of forest. We arrived well after dark. It was surprising cold outside. Fortunately we heard a saw-whet owl in the sparse ponderosa forest. 

We spent a cold night at Kinzua golf course. Coyotes howled outside the tent and Maile paced and whined, hoping for an invite into our sleeping bags. We returned to the same fragment of forest and searched for pygmy owl. Much to our surprise, we heard a pygmy owl. After some tracking we found it singing fairly low in a small pine. What an excellent find.

Charlie has taken an interest in general birding, so we searched the grassland and sewage-treatment plant near Condon, and were rewarded with some nice migrant sparrows and shorebirds. Charlie also heard a pair of Western Screech owls from the tent, something I slept through.

Sep 24th. Charlie and I visited broken top in search of boreal owls. It was a beautiful clear evening. We walked 6 miles and heard one owl call, but couldn't determine if it was a saw-whet or a boreal. 

Sep30th-Oct 2nd. Charlie and went camping with our friends Mark and Justin. The first night we camped at Marion Forks, and hiked to Marion Lake the next day. We didn't see any owls that day, but Charlie was thrilled to see both rough and sooty grouse. 

The second night we camped at Calliope Crossing, near sisters. We heard a pair of great-horned owls singing, and occasionally a juvenile called. The next morning Charlie found a flock of pinion jays, which we were really happy to see. Up at Whispering Pines campground we found a lovely pygmy owl.

Oct 8-9. George, Mail and I drove out to Skyline in the Blue Mountains in search of boreal owl. It was a beautiful warm night, but despite perfect condition we found non. We did hear a pygmy owl near our camp site by Jubilee Lake,  a great horned on Skyline and we saw a great horned near Walla Walla. We also heard about a dozen elk bugling during the night along Skyline.

Oct 13-16. The whole family drove out to the Wallowa area for a long weekend. Charlie and I got up before dawn and found a beautiful tame spruce grouse just above Joseph. We also found a pygmy owl singing in the same area. Later in the day we all drove out to Zumwalt Prairie, where Charlie and I found a roosting great-horned owl in a barn. We also found three gray partridge there. That evening we drove the back roads near Lostine, where we found three different great-horned owls perched in barn windows. That evening Charlie and I tried for barn owl, which we didn't find, but we did find another great-horned. 

We explored Troy on Saturday, hoping to find Chucka, which would be a new bird for Charlie. Alas, we found none. That evening we found a pair of great-horned owls perched in a barn window, where yesterday there had been just one.

Charlie and I got up early and drove out towards Imnaha, we then turned South West along a rough road, where we found a black bear and Charlie's first canyon wren. We also found a couple more great-horned owls along the way.

Nov 6th. Tui and I took a wet afternoon walk around Hoyt Arboretum. Almost immediately we heard a couple of crows calling from some dense fir trees. We found a beautiful barred owl perched on a bough.

Nov 10th. Tui and I took a walk around Oaks Bottom. We heard a huge mob of crows, and followed the sound. A couple hundred crows had found a great-horned owl. As we watched more crows flew in. The owl made a couple of unsuccessful attempts to evade the mob by flying below the canopy.

Nov 13th. Charlie and I visited Koll Wetlands in search of night-heron. We were thrilled to find a roosting adult night heron in some willows. While admiring the red-eyed heron we heard a Virginia Rail, and eventually were able to glimpse the rail darting around under a tangle of Himalayan blackberries. A silent marsh wren was Charlie's 3rd new bird of the morning. On the far side of the wetland we heard a scolding scrub jay. We drove to the far side of the wetland and followed the sound of the jays. A barred owl flew out from a dense stand of Willow trees followed by some angry American crows.  

Tui, Maile and I took a walk at Broughton Beach at dusk. I had walked the beach a couple of times lately with Charlie recently but failed to find any owls. Today our luck changed, and a short-eared owl emerged to hunt near the old sea scout base. 

Nov 14th. I was walking Maile in Westmoreland Park after dark when I found a barred owl hunting from a bridge. The owl stayed long enough that I was able to return with Charlie. This is the first owl I have seen in the park for a few years.

Nov 19th. Tui and I walked along Iron Mountain in Lake Oswego at dusk. A great horned owl sang a few times from high in a Doug fir. Unfortunately we were not able to find it. 

Nov 25th. I took Maile for a wet walk along the side of Oaks Bottom. I found a damp screech owl in the usual cavity of the broken ash tree.

Nov 26th. Charlie and I explored Scapposse Bottoms late in the afternoon. We found a flock of dunlin, which was a new bird for Charlie. At dusk we heard two great-horned owls singing in the distance. We also found 3 beautiful short eared owls that came out to hunt in the rough grassland.

Dec 17th. Charlie and I drove down to Linn county in search of a Burrowing owl that Roy Gerig and Pam Otley had given us directions to. We found the owl late in the afternoon by a roadside culvert. Tgis was Charley's first burrowing owl. 

Dec 23rd. Charlie, Maile and I walked along the side of Oaks Bottoms. We had just had a minor ice storm, and it was a good walk. We found the screech owl in the usual roost, plus a Virginia rail under the viewing area. A small ice-free patch of water had both a beaver and a mink. 

 

135

Friday, December 3, 2021

Ecuador and Galapagos 2021

After a couple of years without a big owling trip, I planned to visit Ecuador and the Galapagos. Because of the covid pandemic I wanted to have a fairly predictable and safe trip. I planned on using guides, which definitely helped me find a lot of owls in a short period of time.


Nov 19th My phone wakes me at 430am. It's a terrible stormy morning. I drive Tui's old Toyota in the rain out to the MAX station. My hot coffee fogs up the windshield as the torn wiper blades struggle to keep up with the rain. I park up in the Laurelhurst Neighborhood and walk over the noisy overpass to the Hollywood MAX station. This is a sad place, where Jeremy Christian, murdered two men a few years ago. Today a guy raps for me songs about inequity and life on the streets. We eventually part ways, he takes the Westbound train downtown and me, the Eastbound train for the airport. My train is full of people who have nowhere else to spend the night. 

I arrive at the airport and everything is regular. I fly out to Houston, and change planes and am in Quito before midnight. I am too excited to sleep, so call Tui and the boys while walking around the outside of the airport. It's a lovely cool night out. Quito is miles away, but the city lights silhouette the Andes, which surround this place to the East and the West. 

The airport has surprisingly accommodating padded benches and I am able to sleep for three or four hours.

Nov 20th I wake hungry, so before doing anything else I treat myself to an expensive airport cafe breakfast. Entering the Galapagos is almost like entering a different county, and so my baggage is checked for bio-hazards and I pay a tax before boarding a LATAM flight. 

The jet stops at Guayaquil to pick up more passengers, then heads out across the Pacific to the tiny island of Baltra. Once inside the terminal there are health declarations to complete and national park fees to pay. Once outside, I meet my guide, Dan Fitter. He looks and dresses like a safari guide straight out of Africa. Dan was born in the Galapagos, and works as a guide, author and photographer. He turns out to be a really nice guy, and a good person to talk to about all things Galapagos (not just birds). Dan can be reached at galapagosvirtualtours@gmail.com  or Whatsapp 593 996431010.

We take a bus across Baltra, which is a very dry island, with the remains of an American air base slowly succumbing to the elements. A huge land iguana crosses in front of us, bringing the bus to a halt. Once the iguana crossed the road, the bus continues, eventually descending down some switchbacks to a ferry terminal. There we take a small boat across a narrow, beautiful passage of vivid azure water to Santa Cruz Island. On Santa Cruz, Dan has arranged a Chevy pick up as wheels for the next couple of days. Crossing Santa Cruz, we start on the dry, cactus-covered side of the island. Near the high point of Santa Cruz we transition into a moist cloud forest, then descend into an agricultural zone that's surprisingly green and fertile. 

Our first goal is to look for Galapagos barn owl. This is an endemic form of the very widespread barn owl group. Santa Cruz has many lava tubes, and the owls roost in them. Unfortunately the lava tubes are popular tourist attractions, and the owls quickly move on to quieter roosting sites if disturbed. Dan takes me to a newly discovered lava tube, in the hope that the resident owls wont yet have moved on. We take a hike through some wet scrubby forest to the tube, passing my first giant tortoise. What a remarkable and calm creature. When we get too close, it retracts it's head, but not before exhaling (to make room for the head) with a loud whoosh. 

     Giant tortoise (I was too excited to look for owls to properly photograph this thing)

We arrive at the cave entrance, to a promising scene, whitewash and a couple of barn owl feathers. Unfortunately the owls are not in their usual roost. I scout around the lava tube, hoping to find them elsewhere. Dan then finds a pair of Galapagos barn owls roosting in a tangle of tree limbs outside the tube. What a pair! The female owl is incredibly dark for a barn owl and very exotic. She is cocoa colored, with white spotting on the upper parts and dark spots below. He is much paler, but still darker than American barn owls, with a buffy-gray facial disc, and white breast that is quite heavily spotted. They are really small owls, with proportionally long beaks and long powerful feathered legs. We watch them for over half an hour. Occasionally one will open an eye and peer at us. 

We return to the truck feeling lucky. On the way Dan points out Galapagos mockingbirds, flycatchers and finches. Our final goal is to find Galapagos short-eared owl. Like the barn owl, this is another cosmopolitan taxa, that has a unique island form that inhabits the Galapagos. We drive to Media Luna trailhead, where the pastures transition into natural upland vegetation that covers a series of small volcanoes. Here short eared owls hunt for storm petrels when they return to their burrows after dark. During the day the owls loaf around on dead snags or rest in short grass on the side of the trail. 

Before climbing we eat a great packed lunch that Dan kindly provided, then set off up the wet misty slopes. We spend the hike scanning snags, of which their are thousands, for owls. We see many moss owls, clumps of moss that grow from the snags, but no feathered owls. We do hear a lot of Galapagos rails and see some yellow warblers, medium-billed and warbling finches. Soon the drizzle and fog really sets in, and it's hard to search the distant slopes. We make a plan to return tomorrow and hike up to the summit.

I get dropped off at Casa del Lago, a nice guesthouse in the center of town. I'm exhausted after two night's of bad sleep, so I sleep for an hour, then force myself to go out in search of food. I feel a lot better after a plate of pasta and a coke. I had a plan of walking the mangroves in search of barn owls, but a very impressive gate keeps me out. 

Nov 21st Dan and I had planned to meet at 8am, so I enjoy the luxury of a late start. I eat a good breakfast at a street-side cafe. Dan and I then set of in the Chevy truck back to the Media Luna trailhead. While taking a side trail, we flush a snip from a small pool. I later check ebird, and there are no snipe records for the Galapagos, so this was a rare bird. We search a big beautiful caldera where Galapagos petrels nest. Unfortunately there are no loitering owls. We meet some park employees setting rat traps. They tell us that they occasionally see the owls at night. Undeterred we hike some more side trails, searching many, snags. We also try playing a recording of a distressed rabbit, in an effort to draw in a hungry owl. The rabbit cries attract many song birds, including a woodpecker finch. 


             Dan searching for Galapagos short eared owls in the highlands of Santa Cruz

We hike up to a col, that overlooks the leeward side of the island, and from there up to a small volcanic peak, the last stretch was really steep. We eat a blustery lunch on the summit. On the way back we find a Galapagos rail and flush a white-cheeked pintail from a small mountain pool. And we scrutinize a thousand moss owls. Dan tells me a great story about crossing the Atlantic twice in old sailing boats which his dad brought out to start an ecotourism business in the Galapagos. 

Our back up plan for the owls, is to visit Los Gremalos (the twins). These are a pair of large forested sinkholes in the highlands. The forest here is quite thick, so finding perched owls will be a challenge. Alas we find some Galapagos doves and the usual song birds, but nothing else. 

Having studied ebird, I suggest the municipal dump, which has a couple of records of the owls. We descend from the cool highlands into the dry forest of the leeward side of Santa Cruz. The dump is not horrific, but it does smell pretty bad. A small fire fills the air with the acrid smell of burning plastic. A gang of cattle egrets feasts on the contents of some torn plastic bags. A slender feline slinks up a steep earthen bank. We follow the stray, and escape the worst of the smell on a bluff above the dump. There we scan for owls.

                                                The view of the dump from our perch. 

The sun sets, and the egrets disperse in twos and threes to their roost. Several fantastic Galapagos hoary bats quarter the dump in search of insects. Hungry mosquitos commence their feast. Once it's too dark to scan the dump, we descend from our hill top perch and walk around hoping to happen upon an owl. I suggest the distressed rabbit call again. While I am still setting up the speaker, Dan alerts me to a curious owl that flew in to the rabbit cries. The owl hovers briefly, then lands in a bush at the edge of the dump. Another joins it nearby. Wow! The Galapagos short-eared owl, is a fantastic looking creature. Smaller than the mainland kin, it's much more richly colored, being rufescent with very heavy dark chocolate-colored mottling. The eyes are bright yellow, and feet and bill formidable. The overall impression is of a dark, and richly patterned owl, more like a stygian owl than a mainland short-eared owl. We enjoyed fantastic close views of this pair of curious owls. Even as we leave they follow us out of the dump, perching on the ground and fence, at times just a few feet away.  

I am thrilled. For the whole drive back to town I just feel happy and content. I celebrate with a beer and pasta dinner.

Nov 22nd. I wake at sunrise and walk around the harbor. Marine iguanas, pelicans and Galapagos fur seals loaf around, indifferent to the people around them. After breakfast I set out in a quest for cash, but seven ATMs later I give up. Fortunately I have just enough to pay my debt to Dan. He runs me over to the ferry terminal, where we say goodbye.

                                    Brown noddy, taken from the little ferry to Baltra

The journey back to Quito is uneventful. At the airport I meet Mauricio, a very capable independent birding guide. He is a slender guy, with an intense, focused face and sharp mustache. Mauricio can be reached at mau_ruano@hotmail.com or Whatsapp 0984015054. Europcar is unable to honor my car reservation, and the other companies don't have cars. Fortunately Mauricio has his own wheels, so we agree on a price, and we use his car. This turns out to be great. Mauricio is a safe driver, and he has a Chevy SUV that is a lot more competent than the car I had tried to reserve. On the drive Mauricio tells me he lives out in a tiny community at the edge of the Amazon basin. His parents had fled there from South Colombia, displaced by the conflict between the government and the FARC. Mauricio started working as a trucker, the transitioned into a driver for bird-tour companies, and now works as bird guide. He's seen about 1550 species in Ecuador, and with a smile will insist his favorite is "all of them".

Mauricio has a clear plan. We drive out to Papelacta Pass high over the East side of the Andes. Just beyond the pass we stop by a small lake. It's now late in the day, and really freezing. We walk along the abandoned old road along the lake shore.

                                                    Owling spot near Papelacta Pass
Above us there's a nice patch of mountane forest. We search the forest for Andean Pygmy owl, a species that I have heard before in Abra Patricia, Peru, but never seen. Today I don't break my unlucky streak with this widespread owl, and we return to the car at dusk empty handed. 

We press on driving for another hour down the East slope of the Andes to Hospedaje Nancy, a nice roadside guesthouse near Guacamayos Ridge. Nancy has a plate of hot food waiting for us when we arrive. After eating our fill we head out to Guacamayos Ridge, a temperate forested, ridge in search of white-throated screech owl. This is a bird that I have seen in Peru, but only once. Our first stop is noisy, with passing cars, and a nearby stream. We hear a screech owl call a couple of times, but are never able to locate it. We drive up to a parking area, and set out on an ancient Inca paved trail. We soon find a pair of white-throated owls singing. It's a magical place. The forest is tall and complex, full of ferns and bromalids. Above the sky is full of stars. We hustle down the trail to the owls, and after some searching we eventually spotlight one owl. 

Back at Nancy's I have time to call Tui and the boys. Later, I regret the two cups of coffee that I had had with dinner, and I am awake for ages before I can finally sleep.

Nov 23rd I am up at 530am. Nancy cooks us a delicious breakfast, and we are soon back at the Inca trail. Our goal this morning is Andean pygmy owl, a species only irregularly reported from this location. 

                                            Mauricio on the Inca trail Guacamayos Ridge

                                    View from the Inca trail towards the Amazon basin

We are both surprised to hear an Andean pygmy owl almost right away. Soon this fantastic little owl is perched up, well below the canopy. It's a brown phase bird, with piercing yellow eyes. and yellowish bill. The upper parts are generally brown, with many fine white spots on the crown, and larger white spots on the mantle, and wing coverts. The tail is prominently banded white. The feet are yellowish, and strong. The chest and flanks brownish with large white spots, the center of the belly is white with brownish streaks. The song is a series of 5-10 rapid whistled toots, and an occasional long quavering note. 

                                                Andean pygmy owl taken by Mauricio

Happy, we return to the Chevy and continue down the road toward Tena, then turning East on the Loreto/Coca road. By the time we reach Loreto, an unremarkable town at the edge of the Amazon basin, the skies have turned leaden and it's started to pour. One of my less obvious targets of the trip is the ucayalae form of ferruginous pygmy owl, which has a slightly more hollow song than other races and has been suggested as a possible split. Undeterred by the lightning and rain, Mauricio pulls off the highway and onto a side road. We take shelter under a bus stop. From our improvised blind we find a white edged oriole, a bird on the wrong side of the Andes, but no owls. We drive on, further east into the Amazonian basin, past Coca, an oil center, and on to Limoncocha. 

At the edge of the community we stop in some open pastures and try again for ferruginous pygmy owl. This time we get a calling bird. The owl remains stubbornly in a thicket, and we have to creep through some heliconias before Mauricio is able to find the owl. It's a red phase bird. I can really only see it's head, what's really noticeable is that the spotting is a pinkish cinnamon, rather than white. Bill and eyes are yellow, and crown rich orange.

In Limoncocha, we meet Pablo, a really awesome local guy, who has built a couple of cabins in his village and knows how to find many of the more challenging local birds. Pablo can be reached on Whatapp at 981270215 or 09989943. 

                                            Pablo, keen-eyed finder of Amazonian birds

It's late, and we are really hungry, but we get caught up in Pablo's enthusiasm and head off to find a gang of four tropical screech owls all roosting together on the same branch. Sure enough, Pablo shows us a little group of screech owls all clustered together. All are red-phase birds.

                                                Tropical screech owls, taken by Mauricio

There is one restaurant in the village, where we are served good lentil soup and fresh juice. We then drive out along a gravel road through primary forest. Pablo has cut a pretty long trail through the forest, which we explore. It's well before dusk, but we decide to try for Northern tawny-bellied screech owl. We separate, and Pablo and I both end up hearing a pair of owls from a thicket. What follows is a tough cat and mouse game, as we try and pursue the owls deep into this dark thorny thicket. We get down on our hands and knees to crawl under a mass of thick vines, hands in the soft dark earth. As we advance, the owls retreat. This goes on for an hour or more. Mauricio and Pablo, don't give up, so I follow them through the thicket, scanning for screech owls. Eventually Pablo calls us over. Triumphantly he has found a singing Northern tawny-bellied screech owl.

                                            Northern tawny-bellied screech owl by Mauricio

The owl has a very pronounced bill for a screech owl, and a deep facial disk and long ear tufts. The eyes are quite brown, (but in the photo a flashlight makes them appear orange). The bill is greenish. The buffy eye-brows extend up the ear tufts. The upper parts are dark brown with tawny-buff bars on the flight feathers. The upper breast is densely streaked with dark bars, and lower down is a lovely tawny color with a few dark centered barred feathers. Feet are grayish-brown. The pair of owls calls back and forth, a fairly rapid series of soft toots. One bird (the male?) has a deeper voice than the other. We also get to see a black-spotted bare-eye in the same thicket.

We hike Pablo's trail a little further as the last light fades. We try for a crested owl, but find none. I have great memories of being shown a roosting crested owl by my fried Shaun, in the Choco forest of Western Ecuador. The Amazonian population is isolated by the Andes and is a little different. I am keen to see one of these Amazonian birds. First we return to the cabins, where Pablo's sister has cooked up a really fancy dinner for us. Mauricio and I are both coffee junkies, and we both indulge in a couple of cups of the dark strong stuff, despite the late hour. We set out again, driving to a farm track. We walk down an earthen trail, past a couple of small farms. Pablo calls out to the silent occupants inside, announcing our intentions. We walk through fields and small remnants of forest. Another Northern tawny-bellied screech owl sings. We spotlight a giant potoo, far far away on a lone snag. 

Undeterred we drive out to another location. We walk along the edge of a large field and up onto a small forested hill. We hear black-banded owl. The bird is way the fuck up, in a truly giant tree. Even with a powerful light it takes a lot of walking around the tree and scanning the foliage high above before we find the owl. The owl is so high that even with binoculars it's hard to make out the thin white lines on it's underparts. I do see it's massive orange-yellow bill, the color of egg yolk and the fabulous red reflection from its eyes. 

We also hear a soft call from a crested owl. The bird only calls a few times. It's also perched way up in a fucking staggeringly tall tree. We walk around and around the tree, aiming the flashlight at every angle to get an advantage, but still can't find it. I then see the owl fly over a clearing. We pursue it, and come to a couple of farms. Eventually Mauricio, finds an incredible crested owl, perched high, but exposed beneath the canopy of a big tree. What a fantastic bird. It's a big chestnut colored owl with extravagant white eye brows that extend dramatically into it's ear tufts. 

Happy and tired we return to the car. What an amazing day. Six owl species seen and four new taxa. 

Nov 24th. We are up at 6am after a short night. After a delicious breakfast we head out to an ant-pitta feeding station Pablo has created. In the densest of thickets a white-lored ant-pitta emerges to eat some larvae. We run Pablo back to his place and say goodbye.

       Myself, Mauricio and Pablo, standing in front of one of Pablo's beautifully crafted cabins.

Mauricio and I head back towards the Andes, stopping along the side road where we had tried for ferruginous pygmy-owl yesterday in the torrential rain. It's sunny today. We hike a short trail into the forest and find a plumbeous hawk. Back on the road we find a pair of singing pygmy owls. Today we get great views of one owl, perched very low in a small tree. The owl glares at us with fierce yellow eyes. It's nostrils bare, and erect, like two tiny volcanoes. 

                                                     Ferruginous pygmy owl by Mauricio

We climb though the foothills West of Loreto until we are forced to stop at a landslide. After the road is cleared by a front end loader, several tractor trailers struggle up the hill past us. A couple of times the tractor unit lurches sideways in the mud. We hold our breath, hoping that they won't get stuck. Fortunately they all make it through, and then we get our turn to cross the mud. After passing Guayamacas Ridge we turn off the main highway and up a short road to San Isidro Lodge. The lodge is located in humid forests on the East slope of the Andes at 2000m. It's an upscale kind of place, and I felt a little out of place there. Still everything was really nice, and well set up for birding. San Isidro Lodge is famous for the "San Isidro owl", which is an ornithological mystery. The owl has been proposed as a hybrid between black and white and black-banded owls, or a subspecies of either. To me neither explanation quite makes sense. Black and white owl inhabits much lower elevations on the West slope, so is unlikely to hybridize with black-banded owl, at this relatively high location on the East slope.  For the same reason, it would be surprising for these owls to be a subspecies of the black and white owl. Regular black-banded owl, occurs just 20km to the East, at a much lower elevation. It would seem incongruous for two subspecies to occur with adjoining ranges, but at different elevations. Regardless of the taxonomy of these owls, I wanted to see one. 

After checking in, Mauricio and I take a walk along the entrance road where we enjoyed lots of typical Andean forest birds. An intense cloudburst drives us back to the cabins. By the time the rains have passed, it was almost dark. I head out to the lodge's deck, which is the best place to see the owls.  Thousands of moths are drawn to the lights by the deck, this in turn attracts the owls which feed on the moths. First we hear a distant owl singing from the wet forest. We take a walk, but can't locate it. When we arrive back at the deck, the owl is perched up on a dead snag. Wow, what a big, beautiful owl. It has stronger white barring on the underparts than a black-banded, but less so than a black and white. The bill is impressive and yellow. The dark eyes catch our torchlight and reflect a startling red color. The upper parts are also a little less dark than black banded owl (more charcoal, less black). The call is a series of 3-4 soft hoots. Brilliant! What a fantastic bird.

We eat a fancy dinner then head to the entrance road to look for cinnamon screech owl and rufous-banded owl. We don't find any screech owls, and end up hearing a pair of rufous-banded owls. After about an hour of searching, we see two beautiful rufous-banded owls. I have seen this bird several times, and just love their dark eyes, tawny and chocolate plumage and lovely voices. 

                                                    Rufous-banded owl by Mauricio

Nov 25th. I wake before sunrise and walk down to the deck. Below there are thousands of dead and dying insects, that have beaten themselves against the lights. Dozens of warblers, tanagers, brushfinches and a few trogons are feasting on these insects. Eventually one of the lodge employees takes Mauricio and I down to an antpitta feeding station, where after a brief wait, we get to see a white-bellied antpitta bounce in along a mossy log and feed on some larvae. 

                                                                View from San Isidro

We wolf down breakfast and a couple of strong black coffees, then hit the road. Our last big target of the trip is cloud forest pygmy-owl. This bird occupies a similar elevation to ours, but on the West side of the Andes. Only described in 1999, this unobtrusive tiny owl occupies a small range in SW Columbia and NW Ecuador. We drive up Papalacta pass, stopping briefly to check out three Andean Condors, just beyond the summit. Skirting past the North side of Quito we pass Mitad del Mundo, which marks the equator, before descending down towards Mindo on the West slope of the Andes. Mauricio has a secret spot for this owl, just above Mindo. By the time we reach the area, it's raining. We splash down a muddy dirt track, driving through wet cow shit and brown puddles. We pull up in a nice remnant of forest. While exploring the road we flush an adult and juvenile pauraque. The later flutters weakly across the road, almost like a big moth. We hike a steep trail into the forest. Almost immediately Mauricio hears an owl! I spot it flying, tennis-ball shaped between two trees. After a lot of scrutiny of the canopy, Mauricio eventually finds the bird, perched high above. It's really high, and the weather is misty, so the view isn't great. I am able to see it's short-tail, light belly and rich chestnut-mauve breast and flanks. The bird is agitated, and has flared it's false ear tufts. Wow! What a great find. We eventually return to the Chevy, hoping for a level view of the owl from the track. We hear the owl sing occasionally, a series of paired, high pitched toots, but fail to relocate it despite a lot of searching.

Eventually we leave, resolving to return tomorrow, when hopefully there is less mist. We descend further, to Milpe, a subtropical forest reserve. The reserve is managed by Edison, a really warm young guy. It's mid afternoon, so we take a walk to reconnoiter the trails. Along the way we find a scaly throated leaf-tosser.

                                                            Flowers in the forest at Milpe

After another really great meal, we head out to a moth trap, where black and white owls are attracted to the moths. We get to check out some exquisite, huge, soft moths. Instead of black and white, we hear a mottled owl. It takes a while to track it down, as it's singing from low in some really dense trees. This is the first time I have seen this species in Ecuador. 

                                                        Mottled owl by Mauricio

We then head on down a farm track in search of black and white owl. About half a kilometer away we encounter a pair of singing black and white owls, and get good views of these bold owls.


                                   Black and white owl by Mauricio (note huge bill and talons)

Their eyes, reflect red in the flashlight, adding to the drama of these owls. Their underparts have far more white than the San Isidro owl. 

We had intentions of heading back to the cloud forest pygmy-owl site to look for Colombian screech owl, but discover that the  Chevy has been locked in. Happy with the day we don't have much choice, but to settle in for the night.

Nov 26th. We are up early, and enjoy Edison's excellent coffee. After breakfast we thank Edison, and then drive back up to the cloud forest pygmy-owl site, hoping for better looks. We park up and head down a steep slippery trail. Almost immediately we hear an owl. I am able to find the tiny owl high in the canopy. We stay on the bird for over an hour, watching it catch a large insect on a mossy trunk, preen and scratch itself.  What a fantastic little owl. I am really struck by it's tennis-ball proportions. The bill is olive-yellow, eyes are brilliant yellow. The upper parts brownish rufous, with a hint of mauve; heavily spotted with fine white spots. The cheeks are also finely spotted white. The chest and flanks are a similar color to the upper-parts, perhaps a little lighter. The belly is pale. About a half dozen times, the owl flies to a new perch, but we are able to relocate it, until we are both satisfied, and are arms are tired from holding our binoculars. 

                                Cloud forest pygmy-owl by Mauricio (taken in the clouds)

Happy, we return to the Chevy, and head up the road towards Quito. Just before Mitad del Mundo, we turn North to Pululahua, a huge dormant volcanic crater. We climb on a dirt road past factories and farms, then reach a col. From there we descend to the crater along a steep series of switchbacks. The views are fantastic.

                                                                    Pululahua
From the center of the crater, a new volcanic cone has emerged. Several times on the decent we stop and try for Andean pygmy-owl. One time, we end up several hundred meters from the unlocked car. We hear another car pull up, next to the Chevy. We both think thieves, and run back up the hill. Soon breathless from the elevation, we round the corner to find a couple taking photos of each other. It takes me a minute to gulp down enough air to catch my breath again.  At the bottom of the crater we try again for Andean pygmy-owl, and in the process hear several Leymebamba antpittas. We eventually give in, and head up to a small community to find  place to stay.   We settle on a nice resort, that offers camping and cabins to folks from Quito who come out here for the weekend. The afternoon follows a now familiar pattern of a big lunch, some reconnaissance for good owling trails and a break for a ninety minute rainstorm. 

Just before sunset, I take myself for a walk, and find a pair of lovely burrowing owls perched on a rock in a pasture. After dark, we set off in search of buff-fronted owl. I have seen this bird before, they are fabulous, and I would like to see it again. We hear a couple of very indistinct responses, but they never call for long enough for us to locate the birds. We do hear 4-6 white throated screech owls, and eventually get two see a couple of birds.

                                                White-throated screech owl by Mauricio

While stalking the screech owls, we hear a striped owl, another owl that I have just seen once, and would like to see again. Alas, the bird is calling from some distance away, and we are never able to locate it. We walk around some farm roads, and get a couple of fly by views of some burrowing owls, and also hear a pair of rufous-banded owls. Our owling is somewhat marred by the abundance of farm dogs, which keep us from exploring the forest near the farms. We say good night at 1030pm, and after that I return for a couple more hours of owling on my own, but all I find is more burrowing owls and lots of angry dogs. I finally call it a night at 1am.

Nov 27th. After breakfast, Maricio and I headed out to look for pygmy-owls and Leymebamba antpittas (a rare bird here, which Mauricio wanted to document with a photo). On the drive out we stopped at the burrowing owl rock.

                                                        Burrowing owl by Mauricio

After much scrutiny of a viney tangle I was able to find an antpitta for Mauricio to photograph. (If I understood the back story, Mauricio had submitted a report of the antpittas from this site on ebird, but it had been rejected by the reviewer. Being a very experienced birder, Mauricio was a little hurt by this. Today he had his photo, and could submit an irrefutable report on ebird). 

Despite our best efforts we were unable to find a roosting great-horned owl on the volcanic cliffs or a calling Andean pygmy-owl from the scrubby temperate forest. Still very happy with the success of our trip we returned to Quito. After saying goodbye and thank you to Mauricio, I busied my self with getting a covid test, then caught my flights via Houston, to Portland.

 

 

 


Friday, April 2, 2021

Texas March 2021

I had been interested in owling Texas for a couple of years. Both Western and Eastern screech owls occur in Texas. The Sutton's race of Western Screech owl and McCall's race of the Eastern screech are potential splits. The Sutton's occur around Big Bend National Park, while the McCall's occurs from about Del Rio to Brownsville along the Rio Grande. I decided to drive down in a rental and then fly back with both boys on spring break.

March 19th. The boys did there best to cram their school work into the morning, then in the middle of the day we picked up a Nissan Versa from Thrifty. I can't say much good about the car, except it didn't break down and it smelled like aftershave (which was better than all our other other smells after a few days on the road). We loaded up the car with 10 days of food and some minimalist camping gear and set off. We drove East along the Columbia Gorge, across the Blue Mountains, and down to the Snake River where we camped at Farewell Bend State Park. It was a clear cool evening, and we made a beautiful-smelling campfire from sage wood.

March 20th. I woke at first light, and enjoyed the luxury of a pot of good coffee and my own thoughts while the boys slept in. We made what was to become a standard of the trip; bacon for George and pancakes for Charlie. I ate whatever I thought would go bad. We played by the Snake River, casting rocks into it's brown waters while killdeers complained along the pebbly banks. Reluctantly we hit the road mid morning. A quick review of the phone showed it was a long fucking way Moab, Utah. I drove the car hard (the speed limit in Idaho is 80) through to Salt Lake City. There it started to snow, which got me worried, as we had to cross the Wasatch Mountains. Despite the snow, the road was clear, and we pressed on through to the sandstone deserts to the East. Tui called to remind us she had made beyond meat "meatballs". At sunset we pulled off the road into a juniper woodland and warmed up the meatballs and pasta, it was really spot on. 

My plan was to camp in one of the BLM campgrounds along the Colorado River near Moab. All the campgrounds were full, and it was an exercise in frustration driving through each one (we tried seven). So we decided to fuck it and free camp. I did my best to hide the Versa from passing traffic. We hiked down a short sandy trail to a beach on the Colorado and set up camp. Despite the late hour, the boys had energy and we built a small fire from driftwood. We sat by the fire and starred at the huge silhouetted cliffs.

March 21st. Again I woke early and was able to enjoy coffee and the most beautiful view of the Colorado and the big, brick red cliffs above while the boys slept in. 

                                                    Colorado River camping spot

We made another fire and played on the sandy beach for a while before breaking camp. Loading up the Versa, we got stopped by a friendly ranger who busted us for camping in a prohibited place. Fortunately we got off with a warning.

Today it was a long, long drive to Lincoln National Forest in Southern New Mexico. The boys were really good in the car, which I didn't take for granted.

                                                    Approaching Roswell, NM
It was a long ass drive, and around 10 pm we pull off the highway and through scrubby range-land into Lincoln National forest. I was so tired, I literally parked at the Welcome to Lincoln National Forest sign. We cooked a late dinner. Around midnight a big ugly wind picked up. George opted to sleep in the Versa, while Charlie and I stayed awake for a couple of hours, before the wind subsided and we slept. At one point in the long night I heared a great-horned owl singing.

March 22nd. I always enjoy waking up to a camp spot that I reached in the dark. All around are cactus and a nearby wash is lined with pale yellow sandstone cliffs. It's too windy for a fire. 

                                            Camp spot in Lincoln National Forest, NM

 
After breakfast we took a quick walk, then piled into the Versa and head out to Texas. Once out of the mountains, the wind really picks up. We passed through 100 miles of ugly oil fields. Huge brown clouds of dust blew across the road. Flares burn off gas. There are whole towns of trailers for transient oil workers. I am worried as wind is the enemy of owling. 

We pulled into our campsite, the Goat Pens, just outside Big Bend mid afternoon. The wind is crazy, and the kids complained it's blowing sand in their eyes. We pick the most sheltered site, up a small dry gulch. I place big sandstone boulders in each corner of the tent to keep it from blowing away. We then drove into the National Park, and made our way to Cottonwood campground-a site for Western screech owl. The campground is small and does not look interesting, so we continue on to Santa Elena Canyon. I was stunned by this place. It's a narrow canyon through which the Rio Grande flows. The cliffs are so tall and beautiful. We hiked up the canyon and eventually wade the Rio Grande to Mexico. 

                                                        Trail into Santa Elena Canyon

                                                            Santa Elena Canyon

                                        Santa Elena Canyon (from the Mexican side)!

Everyone was happy to be out the car, and we enjoyed being loud and playful, chasing each other and climbing on huge, house-sized boulders. After a dinner of veggie burgers the sun set. I packed the boys in the Versa and set off exploring the mesquite woodland for owls. Sure enough a Western screech sings and within minutes I got lovely views of a singing male. It's a big park and it takes an hour to drive back to the Goat Pens. The wind has completely stopped and it's the most beautiful starry night. 

March 23rd. We all woke early and got to enjoy a modest fire.

                                            View from the Goat Pens campground at dawn
The boys clambered around on the small sandstone ridge above the tent. It felt good to let them roam. We drove up to the basin, a huge crater surrounded by mountains. We hiked down to the Window, a slot through which a now dry creek pours through a narrow gorge and (as a waterfall) down a big cliff. At the Window a cool breeze blew in from the desert far below. Alas the hike back up to the car was hot and I forsake water so the boys can have it all. I was really light-headed by the time I reached the car. I checked in with a ranger about rattle snakes and javelinas, George's most wanted Texas animals. Apparently it's too early for the snakes, but javelinas are at the Rio Grande village. We head down there, and park by a grove of cottonwoods.
                                                                        Javelina site
Sure enough a boar soon came out of the mesquite thicket. Like a lot of animals in the park it's habituated to people and we got really close. Soon 14 javelinas came out to feed. George was delighted. At sunset a big horned sheep stood high above at the edge of the cliff and surveyed this place. Again at dusk, I packed the boys in the Versa. I soon found three Western screech owls in the mesquite, seeing one and hearing a pair. 

Again it's a long (hour) drive back to the Goat Pens. 

March 24th. I didn't really have an owling agenda for today so we drove up the Rio Grand to Big Bend Ranch State Park, stopping along the river to play in the water, cook hamburgers for lunch, enjoy and Indian pale ale and generally loaf around in the heat.

                                                       View from the Goat Pens campsite
                                                            Graveyard, Terlingua, TX
We traveled as far Closed Canyon, a narrow dry slot canyon. Despite the heat (about 90), the canyon was shady, and wonderfully cool. We made it back to the goat pens before sunset. After dinner the wind started to pick up. We decided to retreat to the Versa. George got the back seat, Charlie the driver's and I slept shotgun. Around midnight George and I woke, the Versa feeling hot and oppressively stuffy. We woke Charlie, and retreated to the tent, with the cold desert sand between out toes, hoping we didn't stand on any scorpions.  As I drifted in and out of sleep I could hear coyotes calling and a great-horned owl singing.

March 25th. We packed up and left the Goat Pens. Our first destination was the fossil exhibit, where we could see dinosaurs. Big Bend is an incredible place for fossils. George delighted in pointing out all the dinosaurs he previously had known only from books. We then said goodbye to the park and drove along a series of hot, fast and mostly empty highways to Fort Clark Springs, about 200 miles to the East. The springs are a repurposed fort that is now a retirement community and campground. We set up camp in a beautiful grove of live oaks by a small creek.

                                                Campsite at Fort Clark Springs, TX
The springs fill a huge swimming pool, and although closed for cleaning on Thursdays, we couldn't help ourselves and we went for a swim. The water is wonderfully unchlorinated and cool. We were delighting in the water when a security guard came to yell at us. Sheepishly we return to the campsite and build a fire. After dinner I packed the boys in the tent and set out in search of Eastern screech owl. I soon find a singing male by the creek-side and get excellent views of a gray phase bird. 

March 26th. I had made reservations at Bentsen Rio Grande State Park, which was a back up site for Eastern Screech owl. I perseverated on whether to drive down to Bentsen Rio Grande State Park, or stay at Fort Clark Springs. We were enjoying breakfast by the campfire, when our host drove over to let us know that we can't have a fire. I take that as an omen and decided to head down South. It's a long drive down to Mcallen. I had chosen a hike in site, and it's a hot, buggy, mile-long walk to the campground. Once we are there, were horrified at the swarm of voracious mosquitos. I hurriedly pitch the tent and rushed back to the car for bug spray, leaving the boys in the tent.The bug spray had little effect, so we decided to drive into town for popsicles.

                                                    Bentsen Rio Grande State Park at dusk
We returned to the tent at dusk, and I get the boys zipped up in the tent. Checking out the campsite, I heard two Eastern screech owls. A little further down the road I got good views of an Eastern screech owl, before viscous mosquitoes drove me back to the tent. The heat, itching, drone of the mosquitos and low-flying fucking border patrol helicopters kept me up for much of the night. I did get to hear a distant great-horned owl and a barn owl right outside the tent!

March 27th. I had planned on staying at Bentsen Rio Grande State Park for two nights. After that night of hell, I called Tui, who generously booked us into a AirBnB at New Braunfels, TX. We walk along a canal at Bentsen Rio Grande State Park, where a half mile section of Trump's wall has been constructed. I found a wad of small denomination peso notes in the grass, and wonder what hard story connects to the money. We drove up to New Braunfels. At the rental it's really nice to be able to shower, do laundry and cook on a stove. That evening we visited the springs in the center of town. We walked around the springs, checking out the cool fish and turtles. Everyone sleeps soundly that night.

March 28th. We flew out of Austin. I was a bit worried that George would have a hard time with wearing a mask for most of the day, but he did just great, and spends most of the flight either asleep, or yipping in delight as the plane bounces around in turbulence. It was really wonderful to reunite with Tui at the airport